Ah, you're in the market for a replica highwheel. (Originals are available, but unless you find machining replacement parts--or paying for having parts machined--lots of fun, a replica will be a good way to get you riding with a minimum of worry.) Here are some pointers on what to look for in your first highwheel:
(1) Wheel size. You buy a highwheel by the size of the wheel. You want the biggest wheel that will fit, unless you live in a hilly region in which case you'll probably want the smallest wheel that you can fit (too small and your knees hit the handlebars).
If you are buying new from one of the folks above, they'll help you determine the wheel size you need.
A rule of thumb is to take the length of your leg -- from the crotch to the ball of your foot as extended as if you were riding -- then:
- Subtract 10 inches to allow for the crank arm length (6.5") and the saddle height from the wheel (3.5").
- Double the remainder.
- The result is the approximate wheel size you need. The actual number will vary by maker as the crank length and seat height all vary, so use it as a guide.
(2) Appearance. You want to buy a highwheel that looks as much like an original as possible. There are lots of variations in components, but the overall appearance should have at least the following:
- Little clearance between the front wheel and the backbone. Originals had about an inch (or less) between the tire and the backbone. Good replicas keep that small clearance. Bad replicas have two or more inches.
- The frontmost part of the back wheel should be ahead of the rearmost part of the front wheel--it'll look like it's tucked under the front wheel. Originals were trying to keep the cycle as compact as possible, and also make it easier to get into the saddle. Expect to see a clearance of 3" or less; much more than that and you've got a replica that ignores the original look.
- The backbone--that long curved tube that goes from the handlebars to the rear wheel--should taper. That is, it'll start out thick at the top (maybe 1.5" in diameter) and shrink down to 3/4" where it connects to the rear forks. Poor replicas use a single sized tube the whole length.
- A spoon brake with a lever that follows the curve of the handlebar. What, you didn't know highwheels had brakes? And you were going to buy one without a brake? Shame on you.
- A leather seat, mounted close to the backbone. Original highwheels had several general variations in seats: a pan seat, attached to the backbone with a long leaf spring; a hammock saddle, streched between a front and rear seat spring, and a cross between a pan and hammock seat. The worst replica design uses a modern seat, held in place with a peg welded or brazed to the backbone.
- Front forks that are nearly upright. Originals had an inch or two setback (except for the rare highwheel safeties, which had a noticable rake to the forks...but you're not looking at a replica safety, are you?!)
If you really want to be as authentic as possible (with a replica, that is!), you need to pay attention to
- the bearings. Most replicas use modern sealed bearings, but the Spillane duplicates an original-style bearing case.
- the cranks. Good replicas have either a slotted crank or a multi-hole crank to allow a slight (2") variation in the placement of the pedals. In addition, the cranks should be thick--remember, they were using steel in the old days. And finally, the cranks were fairly short compared to what we use today.
- the spokes. Most makers used double-butted spokes. If the wheels were radially spoked, the spokes would usually screw right into the hub. If tangentally spoked, most makers used a 3 or 4 cross (although some went up to 7....geeze!) and at least the outermost cross was tied and soldered.
- the finish. At least a few parts on an original were usually nickle plated: the step, the hubs, the springs, the handlebars, the brake parts. The finish varied by maker and even by model. But you'd want a replica with some plated parts to blend in with the originals.
Does these things really matter? I think so. My first highwheel was a replica; I hadn't done any research and it looked OK to me. Later I saw period photos of original highwheels and I convinced myself that my replica "almost looked" like them. But when I saw an original in person, I knew there was a world of difference.
I can't show you an original in person, but I can try to simulate a side-by-side comparison between an original and the style of replica I once had. I've scaled the images of the two bicycles so that they are the same height. (The other option is to scale them so the wheel is the same size...). Notice that for the same height of bike, you get a lot more wheel with an original because the tolerances are much tighter.
The opinions above are my own. In addition, as I'm not associated with any of the replica makers, their specifications may have changed from what I've reported. Please verify everything before you buy!
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